Ghost of Everest

Rating:
Summary: It is a superbly written and illustrated book.
Review: I thought it had all been said about this expedition and Everest in general until I read this book. The accounts published by the authors in magazines such as National Geographic, and Outside are good but pale in comparison to the quality of the presentation of this book. The photos of the primitive equipment Mallory, Irvine and their colleagues used almost 100 years ago tell a compelling story. I cannot imagine achieving the heights they achieved with the hobnail boots. I had never seen a pair up close. The photos of the mountain from each expedition are remarkable and unique. This book is more than just a climbing tale. The author does a superb job of portraying the people on the 1924 and 1999 expeditions, and the cultures in which they immersed themselves. Mountaineers Books also did an outstanding job of producing the best quality Everest book I have seen to date. It is beautifully designed and executed. It is one of those rare books that I hated to finish and will no doubt refer to and savor again. You will want a quality hardback copy for your library or coffee table.

Rating:
Summary: An amazing detective story
Review: In the words of Sherlock Holmes - "When you have eliminated what cannot be, whatever remains, no matter how improbable, is what must be." So did Sir Mallory and Irvine reached Everest almost 30 years earlier than Sir Hillary and Sherpa Tenzing ? The book attempts to answer this question. The book reconstructs the whole 1924 Mallory expedition as well as the 1999 search expedition. The idea of writing both the ascents together is what makes the book so interesting. The pictures and the maps are really superb. The descriptions of the mountain is so detailed that even you know nothing about mountain climbing (like me) you will have little trouble in imagining the scenes. The last chapter is the conclusion of this Sherlock Holmes detective story. With just some (apparently inconsequential) noting on an old envelope found in Sir Mallory's pocket, the writers/researchers are able to put forward a plausible theory about what may have happened. Interestingly, the broken wrist watch considered to be the an important discovery told the researchers little. At the end, you are free to draw your own conclusions at the end. As for me, I believe that Sir Mallory and Irvine were able to make it. For the simple reason that his wife's photo and letters were not found on his body. Sir Mallory seemed devoted to Ruth (his wife) and had brought a photoframe of his wife to place on the summit. He wasn't carrying it simply because he had placed it at the summit. And he was too meticulous to have left them behind anywhere else. Also, it is proven without doubt that Sir Mallory fell on the descent. Maybe, the success had made him so happy and relieved that he may have dropped his guard just a little bit (out of sheer fulfillment of a difficult purpose) which could have resulted in a fatal lapse of concentration during the descent.

Rating:
Summary: A Lesson on How Money is Replacing Adventure
Review: This book allowed me to analyse why I have not read too many books on Mtn Climbing in the past few years. I am a climber and the genre was important to me for a big part of my life. Reading through this book made me realise how much climbing has not only changed from the days of Mallory, but even from the old siege operations in the 70s. Today the emphasis on gaining money and the machinations and business tactics that go into getting the dosh to go, take up not only the majority of the time making the ascent, but also the majority of the time (and lines of writing) in most mountain literature published these days.

Gone is the old style adventure: 1) adventure-for-the-sheer-fun-of-it, Joe Brown, Don Whillans; 2) adventure-of-the-tortured-soul, Eric Shipton, Joe Simpson; 3) adventure for Imperial gain, Capt Noel, Sven Hedin, or the early British Expeditions to Everest, (though to be fair, it is hard to ressurect this particular genre) and; even the 4) adventure-to-be-the-first-to-do-something, Bonnington and Hertzog, is relegated to second place -- now adventure takes second place to how much money and designer deals for broadcast rights and publisher exclusives can be done before, during and after the point when all the adventure takes place.

As such this book is very symptomatic of this new genre. There is all sorts of vignettes of the evil BBC and it reps and the business concerns of all the others who made crucial decisions tying their business fates to this expedition --- too much of this and too little detail both of the original British Expeditions the search expedition this books puports to write about. There is also precious little route description, how the route was put up and the actual "thrill" of the hunt to find Mallory. Fully one-third of the book deals with these machinations.

Even the people that the authors palpably do not like get off lightly. All of the people they like are usually gifted with some god-like aspect of physical prowess --- eg. barrel-chested, large arms etc. For those who have read Chris Bonnington's books on any of his expeditions, the slow burning personality problems that manifest themselves on so many of these expeditions are conspicuous by their absence in this book.

In sum I liked the book. The good parts are two, and only two in my estimation: 1) the find of Mallory's body and 2) the ascent of the last ridge by the search party members. It is no coincidence that these two subjects are raw adventure and have nothing to do with gaining money or searching to personally skewer someone's personality.

I am glad I read it. But as an inspiration for further reading in the contemporary mountaineering genre, this book is symptomatic of how far the adventure genre has fallen, particularly in the past 10 yrs or so. Maybe you will like it. Maybe you will not. I am the kind of person who trekked the subsidiary valleys around Mt. Everest, but I would not go to Everest base camp --too many people, too much garbage and too many people following the populistic mantra of what passes for adventure writing these days... like the valleys around Everest these days, this genre has been tamed, beaten into submission, and transformed into a pablum for mass consumption. Better to settle down and re-read the Hertzog or Bonnington Classics.

Rating:
Summary: Fascinating Real-Life Detective Story/Adventure
Review: This book is not just for those interested in mountain climbing. It is a well-written, beautifully photographed, reverent accounting of the 1999 expedition to find any evidence of George Mallory's (probable) summit in 1924, along with a concurrent account, through old photographs, journal entries, and interviews, of Mallory's 1924 expedition. The author's possible scenarios on what happened during that fateful trip from which Mallory and Irvine never returned make sense, supported by the fact that these theories were offered by expert mountain-climbers. Did they solve the mystery? I think so...read it, and make your own decision! Perhaps Sir Edmund Hillary wasn't the first man to summit Everest (in 1953) after all...

Rating:
Summary: The romance of high adventure
Review: With their splendid book "Ghosts of Everest" ("Ghosts"), the authors have taken up the gauntlet of attempting to determine whether or not Mallory & Irvine reached the summit of Mt. Everest on June 8th, 1924, before perishing on the descent. The authors provide a fascinating and hugely-detailed description of the fatal climb, and of the Simonson expedition which discovered Mallory. The layout, photography, graphical and sheer physical qualities of the book are to the absolute highest standards.

The front half of the book describes the 1999 expedition, a tale that begins like many of this genre. The difference in "Ghosts" becomes quickly apparent. This is not your bunch of good old boys undertaking a simple task of conquest. Instead, they are only the second expedition since WW-II launched expressly to find the body and camera of the two British climbers, with the intent of finding out how far they got.

Unlike most other Everest expeditions which conjure up the names of Mallory & Irvine to raise financing, the Simonson team actually made the search for the two men and their camera(s) their number one priority. The search effort was planned by Mallory & Irvine researcher Jochen Hemmleb-the catalyst with Larry Johnson-for this expedition. Hemmleb has amassed practical research on the 1924 expedition that pinpointed the probably location of Irvine's body as evidenced by the 1933 discover of his ice ax lying on the route. Yes, they had great luck with the weather-the mountain being unusually clear of snow--but Lady Luck often smiles on the well-prepared, and none were better prepared to undertake this arduous search than the team of this expedition.

The shock of actually finding their needle in the haystack-and then discovering that the body was that of George Mallory rather than Andrew Irvine--sent climbers and researchers reeling back to their notes to try to make sense of this first new ground truth since the discovery of an "English dead" by a Chinese Climber in 1975. The stunned reaction of these hardened climbers to their momentous discovery adds a new element to this tale of historical research conducted under enormous physical adversity; and the photographs of the 1924 artifacts act like an eerie time portal glancing back to an age when climbing the world's highest peak was undertaken with equipment which would today be considered inadequate to climb Mt. Hood. While the consensus forming is that the route was too long and the Second Step cliff too difficult for those pre-WW II climbers to have reached the top, enough ambiguity still exists to give heart to the true believers for whom success might still have been possible. Only the still-sought Kodak camera, with film preserved by the Everest's icy grip, may someday give the final answer. Until that day, "Ghosts" has moved itself to the center of gravity of this still fascinating legend.