Italian Wines 2004: A Guide to the World of Italian Wine for Experts and Wine Lovers

Rating:
Summary: Some people call me Molise
Review: The 2004 edition of the Gambero Rosso marks my fourth Amazon review of this publication. I now own all the editions back to 1999, so I have a "vertical" of Gambero Rosso Guides measuring an impressive 9" across my shelf of wine books. The 1999 edition carried reviews of wines dating back to '93 Brunellos and Amarones, and 2004 has a few 2002's, so my collection covers nearly a decade of Italian wine. Actually, since it's the practice of the Gambero Rosso to list high scoring ratings from some previous years, I have coverage dating back to the mid-eighties in areas like the
Piedmont, Tuscany, and the Veneto.

Accordingly, it seemed like a good time to reflect back on the changes across the years as a way of explaining the current Gambero Rosso product and what it can do for you. It's also instructive to comment on what hasn't changed, because this reveals both the strengths and weaknesses of the publication. The 1999 edition had 648 pages, rated 1536 producers and 10120 wines, and awarded 154 "3 glass" winners (this is the Gambero's quirky way of acknowledging the best wines made each year in Italy). The 2004 edition boasts 864 pages, rates 1937 producers and 14208 wines, and awards 254 winners their highest honor. So, if you want to think about it this way, you're getting somewhere between 25-60% more value out of this book today than you did 6 years ago. Of course, the growth in good wines reflects the underlying explosion in quality across Italy over the last 10 years, and that's what Gambero is all about: annually charting the arc of individual producers and wines in more depth than any other publication in the world. If you love Italian wine or just want some recommendations on what to try, you can basically ignore Parker, the Spectator, and most other sources you've ever heard of, buy a Gambero and go wild. No one else covers The Boot better (at least not in an English language version) and no one hits the mark more often in assessing quality.

Each year the book has a brief introduction in which the authors sprinkle their thanks and comment on a trend or two. In 1999 they were happy because some producers had begun using synthetic corks to overcome the problems of taint. In 2004 they are suddenly aghast at the Parkerization of Italian wine and are all for indigenous varieties and terroir. To put it mildly, this is a little disingenuous if not outright hypocritical, because as long as I've known the book they have been big-time champions of extracted, international-style wines, Super Tuscans, Riccardo Cotarella etc. In many debates and discussions I've had with knowledgeable wine store staff and sommeliers, there has been a persistent strain of criticism regarding the Gambero's politics, ie a perceived favoritism toward high profile modern wines and wines with big marketing muscle when it comes to awarding the esteemed three glass rating. But it has long been the hallmark of the publication that the lesser lights, ie the 0, 1, and 2 glass wines, are not reviewed anywhere else and often represent the true gems of Italy: the indigenous and local varietal wines produced by artisans and small co-ops and unheralded geniuses-to-be, many at very reasonable prices. After all, where else can you turn to find ratings for more than 100 worthy Montepulciano d'Abruzzo's, or a similar number of wines from the Lombardy appellation Oltrepo Pavese?

Looking back at my previous reviews, there is plenty to criticize. The book isn't terribly timely, and for the third year in a row I can gripe that the current Brunello vintage, this time the well regarded '99's, are once again completely absent. The book's organization hasn't changed a whit in 6 years, so you still can't use it without a tiresome reference to the indexes of wines and producers in the back of the book. Half the time if the wine is called Fattoria this or Tenuta that or another common Italian winery starter, you can't tell how it's listed in the producer index and can waste a lot of time trying to find it. The 2004 edition is roughly the size and weight of a brick, which makes it physically unwieldy and awkward to use. Good luck finding a lot of the wines that are off the beaten path: many may not even make it to the US, although scouring store shelves and the 'net for them is one of my favorite hobbies.

But like anything else you love, you can't help but find a way to overlook the flaws and concentrate on the good. Here are three things I do with the Gambero. First, I have carefully calibrated their ratings with prices, so I season my buying by comparing the number of glasses earned to the best market price I can find. Second, with more than 14,000 choices at my fingertips, I almost never buy an Italian wine I haven't tried before without checking the Gambero. If you want to call me a wine wimp or a slavish devotee, I don't care, because experience has taught me that my tastes align with the reviews and I trust them more than any other publication's. Third, I have nearly 20 years of ratings to apply against auction prices, and I've gotten some incredible bargains on wines I knew nothing about solely because I checked the Gambero before bidding. Most recently, I practically stole a 1998 Fontanabianca Barbaresco "Sori Burdin" that was as beautiful and expressive as anything I've had all year (yes, it was a three glass winner in the 2002 guide).

Buy this book not because it will teach you about the history of Italian wine or how to read an Italian wine label or what food it goes with (it won't do any of this stuff). Buy it to experience the best wines Italy has to offer by drinking them.