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Rating:  Summary: Quinces and Gravensteins and Rhubarb, oh my Review: David Lebovitz' new title 'Ripe for Dessert' is a word play on his subject of fruits in dessert. The teacher and former pastry chef with Paul Bartoli and Alice Waters at Chez Panisse has done a book composed exclusively of dessert recipes, which include fruit in some fashion.The chapters divide the recipes into a slightly quirky seven different types of fruit, where type is not determined by botany but by a combination of season (apples, pears, quinces), terroir (tropical), and preservation (dried). The seven chapters are: Apples, Pears, Quince, and Rhubarb Tropical Fruits Citrus Fruits Dried Fruits Figs, Grapes, Melon, and Pomegranates Stone Fruits Berries The most striking thing about the collection of recipes is that there seems to be not a single classic fruit recipe such as simple Apple Pie or Strawberry Shortcake or Peach Melba or Peach Cobbler. Almost every recipe is original with the author or based on a suggestion made to the author. Many are certainly based on classics, but each and every one has some modification. For example: Apple Crisp becomes Gravenstein Apple and Blackberry Crisp Tarte Tatin becomes Apple and Quince Tarte Tatin Rhubarb Pie becomes Rhubarb Tart with Almond Nougatine Key Lime Pie becomes Lime Marshmallow Pie Linzertorte become Peanut Butter and Jelly Linzertorte Peach Crisp becomes Peach and Amaretti Crisp There is definitely a place on many bookshelves for this kind of book. But it is important to know that this is what the book is all about before buying it. The author is so fastidious as a baker that he does not use generic pastry crusts. Rather, the crusts are customized to the job at hand. I count this as a major plus in a serious work on baking, but his may not be your particular bowl of cherries. I can see this book being justly popular with people who entertain a lot and need something new for dessert once or twice a month, especially since the book is organized to make finding a particular type of dessert very easy. I can certainly see that this book should be popular with restaurants and caterers and all professional bakers. One important fact to know about the recipes is that many ingredients are not restricted to their proper chapter titles. Shredded coconut, for example, is something like the grated Parmesan cheese of the dessert world. It gets sprinkled on lots of different recipes. These recipes are all very good. But, they reminded me of a comment on a TV documentary on a pastry competition where a team lost out because their tastes were just too unfamiliar to the judges. The few pictures in the book are competent. The style of the book is a bit garish. I would have been happier with a nice sedate Alfred A. Knopf treatment to the book design rather than the hot pink and orange colors they chose. I am always pleasantly surprised by a bibliography in cookbooks. This would have been just a little better done as footnotes. The double table of contents by fruit and by type (cakes, tarts, cookies, etc) is wonderful. More cookbooks should do this. If I were looking for a good general-purpose book on desserts including fruit, I would go with Wayne Harley Brachman's new 'American Classics' volume. Highly professional treatment of familiar favorites. This book is good for the right audience.
Rating:  Summary: Delicious! Review: David Lebovitz' new title `Ripe for Dessert' is a word play on his subject of fruits in dessert. The teacher and former pastry chef with Paul Bartoli and Alice Waters at Chez Panisse has done a book composed exclusively of dessert recipes, which include fruit in some fashion. The chapters divide the recipes into a slightly quirky seven different types of fruit, where type is not determined by botany but by a combination of season (apples, pears, quinces), terroir (tropical), and preservation (dried). The seven chapters are: Apples, Pears, Quince, and Rhubarb Tropical Fruits Citrus Fruits Dried Fruits Figs, Grapes, Melon, and Pomegranates Stone Fruits Berries The most striking thing about the collection of recipes is that there seems to be not a single classic fruit recipe such as simple Apple Pie or Strawberry Shortcake or Peach Melba or Peach Cobbler. Almost every recipe is original with the author or based on a suggestion made to the author. Many are certainly based on classics, but each and every one has some modification. For example: Apple Crisp becomes Gravenstein Apple and Blackberry Crisp Tarte Tatin becomes Apple and Quince Tarte Tatin Rhubarb Pie becomes Rhubarb Tart with Almond Nougatine Key Lime Pie becomes Lime Marshmallow Pie Linzertorte become Peanut Butter and Jelly Linzertorte Peach Crisp becomes Peach and Amaretti Crisp There is definitely a place on many bookshelves for this kind of book. But it is important to know that this is what the book is all about before buying it. The author is so fastidious as a baker that he does not use generic pastry crusts. Rather, the crusts are customized to the job at hand. I count this as a major plus in a serious work on baking, but his may not be your particular bowl of cherries. I can see this book being justly popular with people who entertain a lot and need something new for dessert once or twice a month, especially since the book is organized to make finding a particular type of dessert very easy. I can certainly see that this book should be popular with restaurants and caterers and all professional bakers. One important fact to know about the recipes is that many ingredients are not restricted to their proper chapter titles. Shredded coconut, for example, is something like the grated Parmesan cheese of the dessert world. It gets sprinkled on lots of different recipes. These recipes are all very good. But, they reminded me of a comment on a TV documentary on a pastry competition where a team lost out because their tastes were just too unfamiliar to the judges. The few pictures in the book are competent. The style of the book is a bit garish. I would have been happier with a nice sedate Alfred A. Knopf treatment to the book design rather than the hot pink and orange colors they chose. I am always pleasantly surprised by a bibliography in cookbooks. This would have been just a little better done as footnotes. The double table of contents by fruit and by type (cakes, tarts, cookies, etc) is wonderful. More cookbooks should do this. If I were looking for a good general-purpose book on desserts including fruit, I would go with Wayne Harley Brachman's new `American Classics' volume. Highly professional treatment of familiar favorites. This book is good for the right audience.
Rating:  Summary: Delicious! Review: I am a big fan of David Lebovitz's "Room For Dessert", but was skeptical to try "Ripe for Dessert" because I am not a huge fan of fruit desserts. this book, however, proved me wrong. The recipes are delicious. My favorite was the Lime Marshmellow Pie (although I did use whip cream and storebought graham crackers). A lot of the recipes have fruit on the side and would be delicious without the fruit. I have enjoyed the Chocolate Bread toasted with cream cheese. This is a great book for someone who loves baking and pastry and is looking to get creative. I wouldn't recommend it to a beginner because the techniques are not well explained if you don't understand them already.
Rating:  Summary: Another Clever Title for a Cookbook Review: Mr. Lebovitz' first dessert cookbook was called ROOM FOR DESSERT. Now he has given us RIPE FOR DESSERT, a collection of 100 recipes with fruit in them. I have tried his Chocolate Cherry Fruitcake (pp. 132-133) and can testify that it is richly wonderful although I don't think it's really a fruit cake with dried cheeries soaked in kirsch as the only fruit involved. (There are almonds and chocolate chips, however.) His Date, Ginger and Candied Pineapple Fruitcake looks doable as well. I must say that I was hard put to find any other recipe I wanted to try. (This was not my experience in cookbook number 1.) It's all subjective on my part-- food always is I suppose-- but I think one can get too many flavors in a dessert if not careful. For example, I cannot imagine baking Prune, Coffe, Chocolate and Amaretto Tiramisu. Additionally, and once again this is just my personal bias, I enjoy baking cakes. There are few cakes included in this collection. Finally you don't four letter word with some classics. Key Lime Pie is one of them. Mr. Lebovitz for his lime pie does a "creamy homemade marshmallow topping and instructs the cook on how to make homemade marshmallow topping as well as homemade graham cracker crust. Does anybody on earth want to know how to make these two items from scratch? And do they have time? I have a suggestion for the author's next cookbook. He should all it READY FOR DESSERT and include only quick and easy recipes for those of us who are (a) very busy, (b lazy, (c) poor-- some of these recipes would cost bunches--(d) all of the above. But if you are looking for very exotic recipes with lots of contrasting flavors, this cookbook is for you.
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